Crate training dogs is one of the single best things you can do for an apartment dog. But how big should a dog crate be?
There is a natural inclination to want to leave dogs free to roam around your apartment at night, or while you are gone. But this can lead to anxiety and unwanted behaviors like chewing or barking.
A dog that is properly crate trained will see their crate as a safe space. In there the dog is removed from the anxieties of the world around them, and often happily sleep away their time.
So how big should a dog crate be?
This is a great question, and varies between your dog’s breed and age.
Crate Size for Puppies
Puppies who are being crate trained need much less space that you might think. Most metal dog crates come with a partition to create a small space for your puppy to use. The main reason for this is that puppies tend not to go potty where they sleep.
While it might be tempting to create a large crate space, a puppy left in a large crate may find one corner for sleeping and one corner for potty. This will defeat the purpose of having a crate in the first place.
Most puppies, aside from the very small and very large can be comfortable in a crate space roughly 12″x18″.
Important note: Puppies should only be left in crates for relatively short periods of time, and should be properly crate trained before doing so.
Crate Size for Grown Dogs
The size of a crate varies between small dogs and big dogs. As a general rule of thumb, crates should be just big enough for a dog to sleep stretched out and stand to reposition themselves.
Crates of this size help reinforce that the crate is a space for calm and sleep. For this reason, good crate training also excludes toys or food.
How Big Should A Dog Crate Be?
Small Dogs: 22″x13″x16″
Medium Dogs: 30″x19″x21″
Large Dogs: 48″x30″x33″
These are rough suggestions, and may vary based on your dog’s specific size. Here are some good options for wire crates.
Breeding has transformed the wolf into hundreds of distinct breeds. We help you understand the characteristics of breeds to best select an apartment dog.
A dog is a dog is definitely not a dog. Breeding has transformed the wolf into hundreds of different breeds of all shapes, sizes and abilities. Dogs were traditionally bred for their physical abilities and temperament, but that varies widely between dogs. In this article we will discuss the characteristics of dog breeds that make the best apartment dogs.
Remember, a dog’s behavior and ability go hand in hand with their individual training and socialization. Just because a Shih Tzu is small doesn’t mean it will necessarily make the best apartment dog. Remember that any dog requires a significant amount of training and socialization to be a well-tempered and happy dog.
Drive
All dogs are energetic. Aside from a few of the notoriously lazy breeds, most dogs enjoy long days of running and play. Energy in a dog is different from drive.
High drive dogs are unrelenting in their pursuit. This may be game retreival, livestock herding or pest management. These traits are selected for because their motivation makes them highly valuable as workers.
Examples of high-drive dogs:
Border Collie
Australian Cattle Dog
Jack Russell Terrier
Germain Shorthaired Pointer
These breeds have an impressive level of focus and attention. However, this level of drive does not translate well to the small apartment settings. High drive breeds will need a significant amount of training, stimulation and exercise to be content apartment dogs.
High drive breeds who are not properly trained or not given an adequate outlet for their motivation will often fulfill that need on their own. Herding dogs may turn their attention to fast moving children or pets. Terriers may find chewing on a loose corner of carpet a suitable replacement for a catching rodents. It is safe to say that a high drive dog without proper training can wreak havoc on an apartment.
However, this does not mean that high-drive dogs cannot become happy apartment dogs. For these breeds to feel fulfilled, they need a higher than average level of exercise and mental stimulation. This level of training will not suit all dog owners. Exercise caution before you choose a high drive breed, no matter how adorable they might be.
Size
It is not surprising that a Yorkshire Terrier will make a better apartment dog than a Newfoundland. There is simply more room for a smaller dog to move around a small apartment than a large dog. But, this isn’t a hard and fast rule. In fact some small breeds like Jack Russell Terriers can be very difficult as apartment dogs. Some large breeds like Greyhounds seem to do well with a simple small space to doze away their afternoons. So choosing the best apartment dog based on size is merely a starting point. To select the right breed you need to dive deeper into their particular tendencies and temperament.
Large Breeds That Make Good Apartment Dogs:
Great Dane
Greyhound
Coat
Dogs shed a lot. Dogs will shed all over a designer couch or carpet, especially during the shedding season. If shedding is a concern, you may want to reconsider getting a dog in the first place.
Dog coats come are usually a part of what they are bred to do. Water breeds like Newfoundlands and Golden Retrievers have oily double coats with long outer guard hairs covering a downy undercoat. These thick double layer coats are meant to insulate a dog that spends long hours in water. Similarly, dogs bred to withstand arctic cold like Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes have an equally thick coat.
Consider your future dog’s coat wisely if you plan to move them into your apartment. Dogs that shed a lot will certainly add to the daily chores. But, consider the climate in the house. Is your house cool during the day? Does it get cold in the winter? Does it get a lot of sunlight and warm up on summer days? What may feel comfortable to you may be way too hot or cold for the pup. A Siberian Husky will not do well in an apartment in Tucson, AZ.
Trainability
Your dog will need some level of trainability to succeed as an apartment dog. They will need to come with you and go potty in a reasonable amount of time, or respond to your command to lay down or quit playing. Some dogs are simply more trainable than other dogs. What we consider “trainability” has less to do with their intelligence than their willingness to work with you. Some breeds are notoriously independent and unwilling to follow your rules.
Difficulty in training isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Some dogs are actually bred to be independently minded and their stubbornness is seen as an asset in specific situations. Scent hounds, for example, are valued for their ability to put the “blinders” on and follow their nose to kingdom come. However, they are notoriously difficult to train in terms of obedience or tricks. Do your research, or visit with owners of breeds you are interested in to get a feel for their willingness to work with you in your smaller apartment.
What we consider “trainability” has less to do with their intelligence than their willingness to work with you.
Breed selection for the apartment dweller is so complex that we could easily write a book about it. If you have specific questions about dog breeds take a look at our Deep Dive posts. Make sure you consider dog breed characteristics carefully when choosing your apartment dog.
Your behavior clashes with your dog in more ways than you think. Learn how and you’ll be much better friends.
Oh, how we love those snuggles, tail wags and face licks. Coming home to your dog’s enthusiastic greeting would lead to you to beleive that your dog felt nothing other than pure love for you.
What if you found out that your dog spent a good amount of their time tolerating annoying and sometimes offensive behavior from you? You might look at your relationship differently. In fact, this is the case for most dogs who live with humans. It turns out dogs may be our most tolerant friends.
It is probably not a stretch to imagine that dogs relate to other dogs in ways quite different from humans. When we greet other humans, we shake hands or hug. Dogs sniff each other’s rear ends.
In fact, from a behavioral perspective dogs interact with each other in ways that are almost completely opposite to the ways humans relate to one another. Sounds obvious right? So why then do we demand that dogs relate to us in human ways?
If you look at most human-dog relationships, you will find that for the most part humans act like humans, and they often expect dogs to act like them as well. So lets look at the ways that your behavior may be off-putting or offensive to your dog.
These Arms
The next time you are around a dog, watch the ways that they use their fore limbs. For the most part dogs use them to run, dig and occasionally swat at a toy. Anatomically dog paws aren’t all that different from humans. Functionally they are worlds apart from human arms. So it is no surprise that people have adapted behaviors that involve the use of their hands and arms. We are capable of handshakes, hugs, slaps and gentle caresses of a cheek. We can pitch, twist and manipulate objects in ways that dogs never could.
And so it is that the use — or more accurately the overuse— of our hands is one of the ways that we can really offend our dogs.
Let’s set aside the fine dexterity of the human hand, and look at a more simplistic behavior: the simple arm around a shoulder. We do this to people we like and love alike. This gesture can signal friendship, protection, sympathy, adoration and love. In the dog world, and arm over the shoulder of another dog is a sign of dominance, and is generally an unwelcome gesture.
If you watch dogs at your local dog park interacting with other dogs, you’re likely to see one or more dogs attempting to throw a forelimb over the shoulders of another dog. If you see this, watch how dogs respond. It is rarely a good interaction. This gesture is one way that dogs establish dominance and submission.
Yet, day by day we sit next to our dogs and throw a casual arm around their shoulder. We think we are being affectionate, but dogs seen this as a power grab, and while they may not show outright aggression, they are certainly irritated by the gesture.
Even this sketch accurately conveys this dog’s feeling about being hugged
In the working dog world, where dogs are trained rigorously to perform tasks, many trainers feel that the use of their hands with their dogs is a detriment to their training. Many experienced handlers of dogs use their arms minimally with their dogs.
Pro tip: When petting dogs that you don’t know, approach from below and aim to pet under their chin rather than going for the top of their head. This makes your gesture much less threatening.
With that said, there is no reason to stop petting your dogs. Most dogs adore ear scratches, belly rubs and pats on the butt. It is the overuse of your hands that may annoy or offend your dog. Consider the liklihood that you pet your dogs more for your own enjoyment than theirs, and keep the use of your hands to a minimum.
The Mouth That Moves
If dogs could talk, the things they’d say. In fact dogs do not talk, and from a communication perspective canine’s use of vocalization is relatively simplistic. Barks, growls, whimpers and howls all are used to communicate amongst other dogs, but in comparison to other animals this vocal communication is not very complex. And yet, many dogs are forced to live with arguably the most vocally complex animal than has ever lived.
Humans are so adept at vocal communication that some spend their lifetimes studying it. Because of this, we have become entirely reliant on vocalizations to communicate our every feeling. Between humans, this level of reliance on verbal communication is required. Our brains actually develop specific areas devoted entirely to the interpretation and production of verbal communication.
To dogs, the human reliance on verbal communication is an ever-present challenge. Although dogs cannot speak our language, that doesn’t mean they don’t try! Much of their very existence depends on the things we human say to them. “You hungry girl? Want some food? Who’s a good boy, you want to go for a walk? Bad dog! No barking! Get down. Get out. Lay down. Come here boy! Off the couch.” It’s a wonder we don’t drive our dogs mad with the many things we say. While most dogs don’t completely break down, many do silently shut off to the endless jibberjabbering of humans.
Source: The endlessly brilliant Gary Larson and his masterpiece The Far Side
Back to the topic of training dogs, one of the first things that trainers do with new dogs owners is to train them to not use their mouths so much. It makes sense too. When we humans want something, for example, we ask for it verbally. If we don’t get the reaction we want, we assume we weren’t heard and go on repeating ourselves until we get what we want.
Dogs have a much more economical approach to the things that humans say. It is true that dogs cannot understand our language, but they certainly can learn our words. When we say things like “Ball” or “Walk” dogs have learned that those words have very high value to them. Often this is because the word is tied to a behavior (ie. the word “walk” is actually tied to the behavior of going for a walk). Dogs are very good at cataloging high value words that actually result in a worthwhile results.
On the flip side, dogs catalog low value words. Possibly the most challenging word/action/behavior in the dog training world is the recall — getting your dog to come to you when called. Many dog owners struggle and often fail at training their dog to “come” when called. More often than not this is because dogs have deemed the word “come” as low value, and this is often because the word “come!” is overused. The more humans repeat a command, the less valuable it becomes.
And so it goes, dogs find themselves constantly trying to make sense of a language they will never fully understand. All the while, we humans go on blabbing our mouths. Do your dog a favor, say less.
Face to Face
Another hallmark behavior of humankind is face-to-face interaction. Kissing, nuzzling, hugging and snuggling often involve mouth-to-mouth, cheek-to-cheek or face-to-face interaction. For humans, in the right situations, this is a welcoming and often exciting behavior.
For dogs, being face-to-face is outright rude behavior. Occasionally, dogs will go snout to snout during an early greeting, but that is rarely long lived. Often when dogs are positioned face-to-face for any length of time, a fight is not far off.
Sweet picture, right? But does this dog really look happy?
Humans are notorious for — and somehow unable to resist — pulling dog’s faces close to their’s in greeting. During a road trip through Wyoming, my wife and I were out near Devil’s Tower letting our border collie stretch his legs. A nearby couple came over to chit chat with us, and the woman seemed immediately attracted to our dog. Without warning she walked straight up to him, grabbed him by the cheeks and pressed her face up against his. Within seconds our dog nipped her. Actually, it was more a nose bump with a little sniffing noise — a remarkably gracious way for him to say “Get the hell away from me lady!” The lady laughed it off as no big deal. He hadn’t actually bitten her after all. My wife and I both looked at each other and chuckled as we knew we were sharing the same thought: “She had that coming!”
The fact is, dogs do not interpret the behavior of a human pressing their face to their’s as anything other than weird, scary and potentially threatening. As we touched on in a previous section, dogs do not use their hands to block or push away other dogs or humans from getting to close, so they use their mouths. Most dog bites, as scary and dangerous as they can be, usually aren’t aggressive behavior, they are just the only way a dog has to establish boundaries.
There is nuance to face-to-face behavior, of course. Dogs will often go face-to-face with other dogs during play or casual interaction. It is in the subtlety of the behavior that makes it ok between dogs. This subtlety is something humans will never be able to grasp, so it is not worth trying. Another difference is face licking amongst dogs. This is one instance when face-to-face interaction is tolerated between dogs. Face licking is often a sign of submission and is so tolerated by dominant dogs.
It is somehow very difficult for humans to resist face-to-face interaction with dogs. It seems to go against our very humanity to not kiss or nuzzle our dogs. From their perspective, they would be just fine foregoing the kiss in favor of something more appropriate like a game of tug.
As mentioned above, the intent of this article is not to tell you to stop kissing your dogs or talking to your dogs. Rather, the purpose of this article is to help you see the behaviors that may be offensive to your dog, and try to lessen them. Dogs are incredibly tolerant, so they are willing to put up with the occasional kiss on the forehead, or your endless yammering. It is your job to try to act in ways that are pleasant and agreeable to your pup. If you must hug your dog — and sometimes you just must — do it infrequently, and keep it short.
Dogs are incredible animals. They have actually evolved a sense for coexisting with humans that dates back tens of thousands of years. But that does not mean that all dog-human interactions have been peaches and roses.
More than likely, dogs have evolved the ability to tolerate human behavior. After all, docility is one of the primary traits that distinguishes a domestic dog from a wild canine. There is no denying the bond that humans and dogs have. Many a good dog devotes their lives to doing right by their human. The least we can do is to return the favor.
If you are interested in a deeper dive into dog behavior, we strongly recommend Patricia McConnell’s page!
Who doesn’t love a big dog? Whether the fluffy protective nature of a Newfoundland or the calm presence of a Great Dane, big dogs have always been appealing. There are dozens of reasons to bring home a large pup. But if you are considering getting one, there are a few we want you to consider before getting a big dog.
Big dogs have played an important role in protection, work and hunting for centuries. Dozens of large dogs were bred for a host of different tasks. In modern times, big dogs are often valued for their ability to add security to a home, or for the gentle companionship that comes with many of the breeds.
Big Dog, Short Life
The sad reality of the dog world is that dogs simply do not live long enough. It seems just as soon as you get out of the puppy phase and into a rhythm with your dog, you are left with just a couple handfuls of quality years. For big dogs, there may be even less of those years.
Unfortunately, big dog breeds tend to have shorter life spans than their smaller counter points. This isn’t true across the board, and obviously varies widely based on the quality of life and health of a dog. However, the gentle giants of the dog world are never around as long as they should be.
Breeds that tend to live less than 10 years:
Great Dane
St. Bernard
Irish Wolfhound
Newfoundland
Health Issues
Big dogs tend to come with big health problems. Of the many ailments that can affect dogs, hip dysplasia is one of the big ones. Hip dysplasia involves the degeneration of the joint that connects the dog’s hind legs to their pelvis. This condition can leave a dog utterly debilitated and in significant pain.
Unfortunately due to unique factors involved in large dog breeds, hip dysplasia tends to be more common in them. The cause of this is multifactorial including health and genetics, but may be due to the rapid growth of large and lanky dogs.
Review this article by the AKC to learn more about hip dysplasia.
Everything is More Expensive
Big dogs always equal big expense. It may be obvious to most that a big dog will eat more food, drink more water, sleep in a bigger bed and require a bigger crate. But, there are smaller expenses that all grow proportional to the size of a dog.
Food is the most obvious expense that a big dog will rack up. According to PetMD, a 6lb toy breed should eat 1/2 cup of food per day. A 100lb dog will require 41/2 cups of food per day.
If you do the math for standard size kibble, a 40lb bag bag of dog food will last:
6lb dog: 281 days
100lb dog: 31 days
Based on that, assuming a 40lb bag of dog food costs $35.00, you annual food expense comes to:
6lb dog: $45/year
100lb dog: $412/year
Beyond food, nearly every item you need for a dog will more expensive for a large breed vs. a small breed. Crates, collars, boots, harnesses and beds will all likely be a lot pricier.
Bye Bye Apartment
Apartment landlords are notorious for implementing blanket dog restrictions based on weight. Owning a dog breed heavier than 40lbs may preclude you from getting that apartment that you want. For those apartments that do allow dogs, often they charge pet rent and deposits based on the size of a dog with larger breeds drawing heavier fees.
If you anticipate moving a lot in the next decade, you might reconsider having a large dog. If you can’t resist those gentle giants (which we understand!) just plan ahead when researching new apartments to know what restrictions there are.
Big Dogs Need Big Space
The whole goal here at Apartment Dog is to prove to you that owning a health and happy dog in an apartment is possible. Given that, we would never deny that more space is better for a dog. This is especially so for large breeds.
Small apartments may pose obvious challenges to a large breed. Beyond the need for space to stretch their legs, a big dog may find themselves “getting into trouble” more easily in a small space. Maybe their tail knocks down a glass here, or in their excitement they crash into an end table and knock everything to the floor. Big dogs, no matter how happy they might be, might create a constant challenge around the house.
Big dogs also come with a powerful set of large jaws! You had better plan to have a chew training regiment in place early to stave off the potential damage to furniture, possessions and the apartment itself.
Remember also that with big dogs, comes big messes. Rainy days usually equate to muddy dogs, and a big dog will spread mud and dirt around a house much faster than a little one.
Likewise, accidents are much more difficult to clean up when they come from a 150lb Great Pyrenees than from a Chihuahua. A big dog means a big bladder. Planning out a regular potty training
If you are considering a big dog in a small apartment, you should plan ahead and know the challenges that you will face living in a confined space.
In Conclusion, We Love Big Dogs
We would never discourage getting a large dog. These breeds can be some of the most endearing and loyal companions. But before you bring one home, just know the challenges and realities that face a large breed. Plan for them, make accommodations and you will set yourself and your dog up for success.
For more information about raising happy and healthy dogs in apartments, consider joining our mailing list!
Puppies can be expensive. While far less expensive than other hobbies, dogs – especially puppies – come with expenses that can add up quickly. Walking the aisles of a pet supply store, it is easy to get the feeling that expensive puppy toys are a necessary expense. However, there are many options for inexpensive puppy toys that work great for young dogs. Some may actually be laying around your apartment right now.
Cheap Toys
Most dog owners know the feeling of bringing home an expensive new toy for your dog, only to find that the dog is more interested in chewing on the packaging than the toy itself. While we do recommend many commercial dog toys, many inexpensive puppy toys will do just fine.
Puppies often find the things you least want chewed to make their toys. Chew training a different, and more complex topic covered in depth in this post.
Rope
A two-foot length of rope with a knot tied on each end may seem drab to us humans. To a puppy it ticks all the boxes of an amazing toy! In fact, we at Apartment Dog rarely spend money on toys for new puppies. Instead we keep a few lengths of rope lying around. They work for fetch or tug and are safe for puppies to chew on. Our dogs were basically raised on these toys and they work great.
Tip:
Avoid nylon or fibrous ropes. The fibers in these ropes can get into your dog’s throat and irritate them. The best ropes are used rock climbing ropes with a braided sheath on the outside.
Chew Toy Alternatives
One of the all-time best hacks to occupy a high energy puppy is a chew toy with a small amount of something tasty like peanut butter hidden inside. This simple combination will occupy a dog for hours. It is also a great way to wear outyour dog before a big nap.
We have been using the Kong toyfor years, and definitely think this is worth the purchase. But, if you are on a budget, a racquet ball with a hole cut in it will do the trick. Simply punch out a hole in the ball about the size of a quarter, then punch a smaller hole on the other side to make it easy to rinse out. Swab a small amount of peanut butter inside the ball and watch your pup go after it for hours!
Warning for larger dogs:
Racquet balls are great toys for dogs, but it is possible for larger dogs to swallow them. This can be a very dangerous situation. If you own a large breed of dog, you might opt for a toy that is larger than a racquet ball.
Treats
There are a number of really expensive treats on the market that will likely leave your fingers smelly and your wallet empty. While we do use some of the commercially available treats, there are some common food options that work just as well. Here are a couple of our go-tos:
Kibble
Simple kibble, like the kind that you feed your pup during meals works great as a treat. These can be kept in your pocket, or a specific pouch, and doled out during training or play sessions.
Pro tip: Get the most out of your puppies meals. We often use “working meals” to combine training with feeding. These are a great way to use feed time to burn up a puppy’s energy and get a little training in. If your pup usually eats ½ cup of kibble at meals, simply put that ½ cup in your pocket and get your pup to work for it. Just remember, you can over-train a young puppy, so don’t make them work longer than about 5 minutes for their kibble. This short amount of time is enough for training. After that, simply feed them the rest. For older dogs, there’s no reason why they couldn’t work for their whole meal.
Hot Dogs
It is always a good idea to have a really extra special treat on hand. These are useful in training dogs in high-distraction situations, or when reinforcing a really important behavior like a recall. Hot dogs diced into ¼” cubes work great for this. You can go uber cheap here, but do your dog a favor and find pre-cooked hot dogs without nitrates in them.
Puppy Beds
Depending on where you shop, dog beds can feel like a luxury purchase. It is not uncommon to see fancy dog beds going for $100-200. Like most of our product recommendations, we have nothing against spending money on your dogs, especially if it makes your apartment look better. But, if you are constrained by a budget, there are some inexpensive options that will work great for a dog bed.
Most of our Border Collie puppies slept in the house on folded blankets. Old fleece blankets are great options for dogs. If you have one or two of them lying around, that will work perfectly well as a soft spot for your pup to snooze. Just fold blankets in a shape large enough for your pup to spread out on.
Shampoo
Dog shampoos vary widely from general cleaners to medicated or specific-use products. When using shampoo for general baths, a bottle of Johnson’s baby shampoo works perfectly well. This soap is gentle, non-irritating to the eyes and is fragrance-free. It is also a fraction of the cost of most dog shampoos.
A Word About Dog Scent
One of the most perplexing things to humans is a dog’s eagerness to roll in smelly, disgusting things. The smellier and more rotten, the better as far as a dog is concerned. There is an evolutionary explanation behind why a dog would want to do this. From a hunting perspective, if a wolf were coated in Gazelle poop, they smell horrible, but what they don’t smell like…is wolf. Big advantage when sneaking up on prey.
Where Not To Skimp
These are some of our favorite puppy budget hacks. But, there are some products that you simply do not want to skimp on.
Here is a list of dog items not to skimp on:
Crate
Collar
Health Products
Food
Crate
A crate is probably one of the most important things you can buy for a new puppy. Crate training gives your pup a sense of security, their own space and helps with potty training and separation anxiety. You definitely want to buy a high quality crate.
Health tip
When buying a crate for a new puppy who has not finished their vaccination series, you may want to avoid buying used unless you are absolutely sure that it came from owners whose dogs were vaccinated. Your big concern with puppies is parvovirus, which most young puppies are not protected against until about 16-18 weeks of age. Parvovirus infections cause severe illness in dogs, and the bill for the vet hospital stay might level any budget savings from the above hacks. There is no way to reliably clean used products, so you may as well buy new.
Collar
A good quality collar with a strong clasp can be a lifesaver. Most collars are not that expensive, so don’t go cheap on them. We recommend leather collars. They are long lasting, and they do not take on smell. Nylon collars can start to smell a bit “doggy” after a while.
Health Products
When it comes to health and grooming products like nail clippers, brushes, teeth cleaning products there is no reason to skimp here. Taking care of your dog’s health properly requires the right equipment.
Food
It is true, there are some supremely inexpensive dog foods on the market. I won’t name brands, but this is not an area to be cheap. Unless you are using a specific diet like raw feeding, your dog will subsist almost entirely on kibble. As their main source of nutrition, you want a product that is well formulated and made from ingredients that are healthy and well-tolerated by dogs. These tend to be a bit pricer than the bargain basement options. Good food is worth every penny.
These tips are meant to provide you with alternatives and suggestions for inexpensive puppy toys. Visit our website for more in depth descriptions of toys, products and training.
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Thanksgiving is around the corner and that means food! Having dogs that beg or steal food from the table can ruin any holiday meal. Follow these steps to train a dog that doesn’t beg or steal food.
Begging. Dog owners love it and they hate it. On one hand, your dog’s persistence and adorable attempts to woo you into giving up a treat are endearing. On the other hand, having a dog that you can’t trust around your food is no fun at all. Dogs, like any animal, are highly motivated by food. However, the degree to which they will go to get it depends entirely on the training you provide them.
Watching dogs interact with other dogs, you can easily spot how young dogs learn about boundaries. Dogs don’t mince words – for lack of a better expression – when it comes to establishing boundaries around food. Many dogs will growl, bare teeth or even nip at any dog trying to sneak in for a taste of their meal.
Puppies will often try a slough of tactics to try to get to an older dog’s food. Ultimately, the response of the older dog establishes the boundaries that a puppy needs to understand what is theirs and what isn’t.
Your role as the dog owner is to establish those boundaries with your dog. This article will include some simple steps to avoid begging and food snatching for new puppies. It will also include tips for old dogs with bad habits.
They Don’t Want What They Have Never Had
One of the basic foundations to training dogs around food comes down to a simple decision. Do your dogs get people food, or not? Some people find a lot of joy in periodically sharing their food with dogs. We admit that even though we have fairly strict rules with our dogs and people food, we too relish occasionally sharing a hunk of steak or chicken with our pups. The only caveat is that we only allow our dogs people food when they are mature and have been trained not to beg for food.
The best way to start off your food training is to simply never give your young dogs people food. It’s as simple as that. Turning that into reality requires discipline on your part. With our younger dogs, we simply never feed them from plates, tables or in the kitchen. This eliminates any association that the pup might make between the times that we eat and the times that they eat.
Our puppies eat at regular feeding times in the morning and evening so that meals are predictable. The only other feeding comes in the form of treats during training sessions. When we make food and sit to eat, the pups learn that this is not a time when they get food.
Establishing this early on will eliminate the drive and interest that a puppy might have in your food. Once they learn that plates, kitchens and tables never result in food for them, they won’t place any stock in trying to beg or snoop around them.
Get Out!
One of the very early tricks you can teach a dog is knowing the boundaries of different rooms in your house and teaching them how to “get out” when you ask. This may sound harsh, but having the ability to get your dog to exit a room can be a very valuable tool.
We teach our dogs early on to learn the command “get out.” You can start training this by starting with a simple back up. Using a clicker and treats, slowly move a treat close to your dogs nose. If they lunge or try to snatch the food, simply recoil your hand a bit. No need to use your voice, they will get the message. Move the treat closer again and the moment that they take a step back, click that and reward with the treat. Once the pup can do this reliably, we start to place a vocal command on it. Using the words “get out” is a great way to start.
It may seem logical to use the words “back up” for this command. This is perfectly fine to do! But we have found value in having the command “get out” that tells our dogs to back up and get away from us. For more mature dogs it will teach them to not be pushy!
Next, once you have a solid “get out” command on your pup, you can start to establish boundaries to different rooms. Doorways make an obvious dividing line between a room and a hallway. As for kitchens, it helps to have a line between tile and carpet or something similar that a dog can learn to recognize as the boundary of that room.
To train a dog to get out of a kitchen, simply use your “get out” command with your dog in the kitchen, but still close to that dividing line. Ask your pup to “get out” and wait for them to cross the line. Don’t repeat the command and don’t click until they have crossed the line. Many dogs will try repeating the task if they don’t get the treat. In this case, they will likely take additional steps back to try to appease you. Once they cross the line, click and give them their reward.
Once you have that well established, it’s your job to lengthen the distance they need to go to get out of the kitchen and gradually add distractions so you can make that command reliable.
Being able to reliably ask your dog to “get out” of the dining room is a great way to make them pleasant around the dinner table.
All Done!
If you have a well trained dog that doesn’t beg or snoop for food, that is when you can – if you choose – start to treat them with people food. We rarely recommend people food for dogs since it simply isn’t necessary and tends to create more problems than not. But, as mentioned before, even we break this rule from time to time. One way we teach our dogs not to continually beg is through the “All done!” command.
We train “All done!” during toy play sessions. Even a 10 minute tug game in the living room gets marked at the end with us saying “All done!” At that point, the toy gets put away and we stop playing. The dogs learn that “All done!” means that whatever fun they are having is over for now.
We apply the same principle to treating our dogs. If we choose to gift our pups with a nice piece of cooked chicken, we will follow that with the usual “All done!” and our pups learn to go about their business knowing that the fun is over. If they don’t, we simply ask them to “Get out.”
The “All done!” command is a big part of what we call our dog’s “Off switch.” We own Border Collies, and if you have ever worked with them you know the absolute necessity of an “off switch.” A Border Collie, and any high drive dog for that matter, will be unrelenting in their pursuit if you don’t teach them to chill out.
Breaking Bad Habits in Dogs
Many of you reading this might be thinking, “This all sounds nice, but our dogs already beg!” It’s ok if your dog has a bad habit or two around food. There is still a lot you can do to break the bad behavior.
If your dog begs at the table or snoops in the kitchen, the first thing you need to do is go cold turkey (pun definitely intended) on giving them any people food treats. You need to stop that behavior for good to be able to make progress with your dog.
Next, you need to reestablish boundaries with your dog. This is going to be far more difficult with your dog who knows it can get treats at the table or in the kitchen. You might try asking your dog to “Get out!” and they will think “Yeah, I don’t think so. I know I can get treats eventually!”
Establishing New Boundaries
Establishing boundaries can be as simple as requiring your dog to lay in the living room while you cook or eat dinner. If your dog doesn’t have a good lay/stay, then you might need to crate them while you cook and eat. This requires good crate training – another complex but important topic – so that they don’t feel punished by the crate.
If you have a dog that steals food, the first step in breaking that habit involves one rule: no dogs in the kitchen. Period. This rule means that the kitchen or the dining room is simply not a place in the house that dogs are allowed to go. If nothing else, this removes the possibility of your dog stealing from a countertop. This sets your dog up for success rather than failure.
Leave it!
Training a dog on the command “Leave it” is a great way to develop new habits around food. “Leave it” is also an amazing part of any obedience training. A reliable “Leave it!” can actually keep your dog safe when out on walks in the city.
“Leave it” is a great way to start to break bad behaviors because it ties the intended behavior (avoiding food) with a positive reward (food!). You can start with simple kibble treats to train this. Place the food on the ground near your pup. If they go for the food, simply grab the treat away. Again, no need to use your voice since the message is clear. Depending on how driven they are, you may need to be ready to snatch the treat up quickly if they go for it. Eventually you will see your dog pause before going for the food. That is the behavior your want to mark with the clicker.
Once your dog reliably pauses, you can start to add the vocal command “Leave it.” What this looks like is: your dog pauses, you click the clicker and say “Leave it” and immediately give them a treat. Eventually your dog will learn to look to you before going after something they want.
Reminder: Make sure you don’t let them get the first treat after you reward them since that would negate the training!
Next, you can replace the treat with people food. Try placing a small amount of cooked chicken on a plate and repeat the training exercise. In this case, you may want to reward the pup with something equally enticing to get the message across.
Eventually, your dog will learn that pausing and avoiding people food means they get a tasty treat.
As with any training, getting your dog to be well-behaved around food requires time, patience and consistency. Don’t expect results overnight, these things take time and effort. If your dog slips up during the course of training, don’t sweat it. Just go back a step and reestablish the basics. Eventually, with enough time your dog will be a champ around people food. A well-behaved dog is always a welcome addition to the holiday dining room.
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With holiday meals fast approaching, November is the perfect month to brush up on the foods in your kitchen that may pose a risk to your dog’s health. Many of the foods that can make your dog ill are far more common than you might think. Some of these are potentially fatal to a dog, so knowing which ones are the riskiest will help you keep your kitchen safe.
In this article, we will discuss five of the most harmful foods and a brief explanation of what symptoms they cause in a dog. Some of these foods might seem like something your dog would have no interest in. However, foods like onions and grapes/raisins are often hidden in prepared foods that otherwise taste great to your pup.
Also, if your dog is prone to raiding the trash can, you might assess how you’ve prepared your apartment. When dogs get into trash, they assume an eat first and ask questions later mentality. Many dogs are not discerning when it comes to trash can raids and may inadvertently ingest something harmful.
Grapes
Grapes have been on the no-go list for dogs for the past few decades. This is due mainly to reports of kidney failure after ingesting them. These reports detail fairly severe illness immediately after ingesting even a few grapes. Symptoms included vomiting, listlessness and signs of kidney failure including excessive urination with high protein content.
However, some research has found conflicting evidence. One report found that extracts of grape and blueberries were well tolerated by dogs. The report found that grape extract did not induce any measurable loss of kidney function. This indicates that if grapes are indeed harmful to dogs that it may be something other than the soluble chemicals found in the fruit.
We recommend keeping them away from your dogs to be on the safe side.
Xylitol
Xylitol is a sugar substitute found in some candies, chewing gum and dental products. Its taste is sweet like sugar, but is less calorically dense. It also has the ability to slow bacterial growth since most bacteria are incapable of digesting xylitol. This is why xylitol is used in many dental products.
Unfortunately for us dog owners, xylitol comes packaged in tasty sweet products like chewing gum. If left out, these could pose an irresistible temptation for a dog.
So what happens when a dog eats products containing xylitol? Essentially, the sugar induces a release of insulin many times greater than other sugars like glucose or sucrose. High circulating insulin drawssugars into the tissues, triggering a sudden drop in serum blood sugar also known as hypoglycemia. Hypoglycemia can present as shakiness, unusual behavior and weakness. At higher doses, xylitol can induce outright liver failure. Either of these symptoms can be quite dangerous for your pup. If you even suspect that he/she got into something containing xylitol, it’s time to head to the veterinarian.
Onions
Onions are a kitchen staple, and find their way into dozens of different dishes. What is Thanksgiving stuffing without the flavor of onions? With these pungent veggies in use in the kitchen, there is a significant risk that your dog might get into them.
Onions induce a condition called hemolytic anemia in dogs, where in your dog’s body starts to destroy its own red blood cells. Some research has shown that gut bacteria contribute to the development of hemolytic anemia from onions. They do this by metabolizing compounds in onions into more toxic forms in the gut.
Hemolytic anemia is a serious condition in dogs. Signs of this condition include pale oral mucosa and weakness or tiring out easily. If the conditions progresses, the breakdown of red blood cells causes bilirubin to build up in the body. This leads to jaundice (yellowing of the skin and whites of the eyes) and dark Coca Cola-colored urine. These are signs of a serious condition. If you dog shows these signs consult your vet immediately.
Be mindful of foods that contain high amounts of onions as well as the scraps that make it into the garbage or fall on the kitchen floor.
Alcohol
Alcohol is easy to understand as a toxin because it affects dogs the same way that it affects humans. The main risk is that many humans overestimate the amount that dogs can ingest before getting sick.
Reasoning this out comes down to volumes and percentages. For the average human, it might take two drinks in an hour to reach the legal limit to drive in most states. This is roughly .08% alcohol by volume (ABV). So, let’s say one beer gets a 180lb person to about 0.4% ABV. A dog that weighs 40lbs is roughly ¼ the weight of a 180lb human. This means that the same beer might bring the dog to an ABV roughly four times as much, roughly 1.6%.
If you have ever seen a human with an ABV of 1.6% you have seen the toxic effects of alcohol first hand. Slurred speech and poor coordination highlight the toxic effects have on the brain. In particular, alcohol effects the cerebellum, the region of the brain that coordinates movement. Acute intoxication in your dog may present as your dog being unable to walk or coordinate movements.
Acute intoxication by alcohol also damages the liver and can induce a toxic form of hepatitis.
Other signs of acute alcohol toxicity in dogs include listlessness, inability to wake or get up and drooling.
Beer, sweet cocktails and wine are tempting to some dogs. If left unattended a dog can drink far more alcohol than their system can tolerate. It is important to keep alcoholic beverages well out of reach of dogs.
Chocolate
Chocolate is a well-known toxins to dogs. With the holidays nearing, chocolates may start to show up around the house posing a risk for your pup.
Theobromine is one of the active compounds in cacao beans. Some chocolates, particular dark chocolates contain high levels of theobromine. Theobromine effects dogs quite differently than humans. It affects a dog’s digestive system, inducing nausea and GI upset. Theobromine is also stimulating to a dog’s heart causing a rapid heart rate. Theobromine also impacts a dog’s central nervous system. It can cause seizure-like conditions if eaten in sufficient quantities.
With holiday meals fast approaching, this is the time of year to be aware of those foods that can be harmful to your dog. Social distancing may force your celebrations to be quite small this year. While you may revel in sharing holidays with just your pup, it may be more difficult to keep an eye on him/her.
If you suspect your dog got into anything harmful, or if he/she is acting unusual or displaying symptoms, consult your veterinarian right away.
Disclaimer: This post is not intended as a substitute for direct, personalized medical advice from a trained and licensed veterinarian. This post is merely for your own entertainment and education. If you suspect your dog has ingested a harmful substance, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.
Rainy days make walking and exercising your dog a messy chore. Incorporate these activities into a play session that keeps your apartment clean and your dog happy.
Rainy days can really put a damper on the fun of walking your dog. For you city dwellers and apartment residents, regular daily walks are usually your dog’s main form of exercise. What is usually a fun frolic through the park on a sunny day may turn into a tromp through the mud, and a dirty dog to bring back to the apartment. If you aren’t up for that, or if the weather is just too bad to go outside, you need not despair. Here are a few suggestions for safe, apartment-friendly indoor workouts to stimulate and tire out your dog.
Reminder: Dogs love to play, but don’t get sucked into the idea that they need to play every day. Even Olympic athletes take days off to sit on the couch. If the day is dreary and cold and you are simply too busy or tired to follow these tips, it is ok. Your dog can handle a day off!
Hide and Sniff
Dogs come with incredible smelling machines attached right on the front of their face. Using their noses to sniff out treats and toys ties back to their evolutionary makeup. For that reason, scent activities are highly stimulating for dogs. Rooting out a tasty treat or favorite toy can be an all-consuming task.
A little training around toys and patience is all you need to get these games going in the house. To begin, simply take your dog’s favorite toy and hide it under a couch cushion, behind a bookshelf or under a carpet. You can do this right in front of them because dog’s don’t have quite the sense for object permanence that people have. In fact, you can actually hide a toy right in front of most dogs. Once the toy is hidden, give your dog the “Go find it!” command and let her sniff around. If she finds it, reward her a little party with a light game of tug or short toss.
Eventually, she may figure out your game, so you’ll need to vary your hiding locations a bit. For a little extra challenge, have your pup wait patiently in another room while you hide a toy and then release her to find it. This of course requires a well-trained “stay” command.
Most dogs are scent wizards. However, some dogs are actually bred for scent work. Dog’s like hounds and beagles will astound you at their ability to find items based on even the faintest scent. Other dogs may get bored rather quickly. If your dog is one of the scent gifted, you might consider getting them involved in scent-based sports like barn hunt. If your dog is more like the latter – like our border collies – then you’ll need to just do short scent sessions mixed in with some of the other activities listed in this article.
Chew Puzzles
Chew puzzles are probably the most passive option for rainy day activities. But, that doesn’t mean they aren’t a blast for your dog. Chew puzzles can range from basic chew bones like Kong or Nylar on up to fairly elaborate toys that hide treats behind a maze of moving parts.
Chewing is southing and satisfying for a dog. But like all activities, some dogs take to it more than others. That’s perfectly fine! A ten minute chew session can be really rewarding, and quite tiring for a dog, especially toward the end of the day.
One of the easiest chew puzzles involves putting a small amount of peanut butter or Kong Stuff’n Easy Paste into a Kong Classic Chew Toy and letting your pup spend the next hour trying to lick all of it out. This is about the easiest stimulation you can give your dog. Just make sure you don’t overdo how much peanut butter you put in there. You don’t want to turn a rainy day activity into an upset stomach.
Tip: these chew sessions should be just one component of your rainy day activity. This is often a great way to cap off an indoor workout and let your dog chew her way into a nice long nap.
Tricks
There really is no better option for indoor workout than tricks. Trick training works your pup’s mind and body, builds your bond and helps train them into well-behaved dogs. Trick training can start as early as 8-10 weeks and go throughout the dog’s life. Whether you are teaching your pup to sit for the first time, or working on an elaborate obedience sequence, there’s no denying the benefit of trick training.
The number of tricks you can teach a dog are virtually endless. If you have a new pup, try working on the mainstays like “sit” or “lay down.” Older dogs can work on more physical tricks like heeling or walking through your legs. If your pup loves tricks, you have no reason to stop until you’ve choreographed your audition routine for America’s Got Talent.
Reminder: The younger the dog, the shorter the trick training session. 8-12 week old dogs only need about 5 minutes at the time. Dogs can sour to work if you overdo it, so make the sessions quick and concise and move on to the next exciting activity.
Tug
Tug is one of the best games you can play with your pup. However, this game goes so far beyond simple play. Tug is a way to build obedience, use up physical energy, help avoid possession guarding and strengthen your bond with your dog. But, there is a right way and a wrong way to play tug.
The old-fashioned “tug-of-war” is outdated and inadequately describes the essence of this activity. The goal of tug isn’t to win possession of the toy as the word “war” implies. The purpose of the game is to engage in play together. However, your pup might see the game differently at first. Dogs, especially puppies love a game of keep away, and winning possession of a toy through tug is just the first step in that game. Don’t fear, this is easy to correct.
When you play tug with our dogs, the game should look more like a game of catch than a game of keep-away. Try swishing the toy along the ground to entice the pup to go after it. Once they have a good hold of it (more on this later!) the game has begun! The pup pulls and gains ground, then we pull back. Tug tug tug, give give give. Mix a little light shaking and suddenly the game becomes wildly exciting for a dog.
Drop-Take-Drop
A game of tug is a great way to build obedience. Try using the command “drop” periodically throughout the game. If your pup is reluctant to give up the toy, don’t repeat the command, just sit perfectly still until she drops it. As soon as she does, exclaim “Yes!” and immediately offer back the toy with the command “Take!” and resume the game. What did you just teach her? Two things. One, when she gives you the toy, it doesn’t mean she loses it forever. Second, giving up the toy actually means the game resumes!
Approaching tug in this way teaches a dog to listen to you and to associate you with fun. More importantly, your dog learns that they can give up their toys and not lose them forever. In fact, if they give up the toy, the game gets even more fun!
Now, there are a few things to avoid when playing tug. First, a dog’s teeth look strong, but there are limits. Avoid tugging hard, or using sharp jerking tugs as you could possibly break a tooth. Puppy teeth are especially vulnerable to this.
Tip: Make sure your dog has a solid hold on the toy before tugging. If she only has a little bit of it in her front teeth, there is a lot of force being put on those teeth. Give her time to get a good hold on the toy before tugging to avoid damaging her teeth.
Second, avoid pulling upward such that your dog’s neck cranes backward. This puts unnecessary stress on their neck. Get down on your knees to avoid pulling upward. Pull the toy horizontally or toward the ground. Notice that your dog’s head is in line with the rest of its body? That’s a good thing.
Lastly, when the game is done, always end on a positive note. We prefer not to leave the pup with the toy after the game, but rather to take the toy and end with a “Ok, all done!” At that point, the toy goes away and the pup gets lots of pets and praise. Soon dogs learn that the game is over and it’s time to grab a drink of water and rest.
Reminder: the saying “play makes potty” is real. Once you are done with your play session, take your pup out for a potty break because they probably have to go.
All of these exercises can be done in the confines of your living room. They offer a great option for exercising your pup on a rainy day. Even better, they are an opportunity to build your training and strengthen the bond between you two.
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Puppy proofing your apartment is one of the best ways to keep your puppy safe. These steps will help you make a safe apartment space for your pup.
You’ve made the decision, selected your pup and at last are bringing them home! The first day at home with a new puppy is as joyful as it is anxiety provoking. Puppies have a remarkable ability to do the polar opposite of what you want them to. Puppies getting into trouble sometimes means putting themselves at risk.
Apartments come with their own set of hazards to a young pup. Many of the risks to puppies in your apartment may not be immediately obvious. This post will highlight the key changes you need to make to create a safe apartment space for your puppy.
Puppy proofing a home is an absolute requirement to any new dog owner. Puppy proofing should be done in the weeks leading up to the pup arriving home, not after. Here are some tips for the new puppy owners that will help you puppy proof your apartment.
The Things that Zap
To humans, electricity is well-contained within cords and sockets and poses no real hazard. To a puppy, with razor sharp teeth and very little real world experience, electricity in the house can pose a hazard. A young puppy can easily chew their way into an electrical cord and receive a nasty zap.
One of the first steps in puppy proofing is to lift all electrical cords off the ground. Since most electrical sockets are within a foot of the ground, you’ll need to do something about those that are within reach of your pup. Puppies are attracted to dangly things that move. Jewelry, clothing, furniture tassels and unfortunately electrical cords all make an attractive chew toy. Electrical cords secured to a wall become stationary and therefore uninteresting to a puppy.
Hardware stores sell electrical cord brackets, straps and conduit that will securely fashion cords out of reach of your pup.
Some cords and cables simply cannot be removed from the interest of your pup. In this case, it is up to you to be vigilant of the puppy and make sure she isn’t chewing into something she’s not supposed to.
The Things That Tip
The flat screen TV on your entertainment center may seem secure. A puppy can find 101 ways to tip that thing over. Similarly, the glass vase on top of the end table might be well out of a puppy’s reach. Turn your attention elsewhere and your pup will have that thing shattered on the ground in no time. Obviously, falling objects are a huge hazard to a little pup. It is up to you to think a few steps ahead to protect your pup.
Apartments, with their limited space, usually force people to own taller and narrower furniture. How you decorate your apartment may be hazardous to a young pup. Even shelves and dressers can be unstable enough to tip if a puppy finds a way to tug on them.
Walk through your house and imagine any appliance, piece of furniture or trinket as something that can fall. If you can even remotely imagine an item being tipped, you best start securing, moving or replacing it now.
The Things They Chew
Puppies chew, there’s no getting around it. It is up to you to decide what they chew. All household items are vulnerable to a young puppy’s teeth. Very young puppies are inhibition-free little drones. They have the attention span of a fly. Puppies will bounce between table legs, shoes, utensils or anything else that they can get their mouths on.
Teething pups find chewing not only enjoyable, but necessary. A big part of avoiding damage to your apartment is chew training. For very young pups, this simply involves not giving them the opportunity to chew household items.
Take some time prior to your puppy’s arrival and crawl throughout your apartment. Drop your head low to the ground and see what you can find from a puppy’s perspective. You might discover a lotion bottle that had fallen under a couch. Had you not known it was there, it may have ended up all over your pup, and all over your apartment in no time.
Don’t spare the bathroom, closets or kitchen. Move any items that you don’t want chewed well out of reach of a pup.
The best way to avoid a puppy failing is to not create a situation where they can fail.
The Things They Eat
What a puppy chews, it often eats. What a puppy eats can at best nourish them and at worse poison them. Pay close attention to things like household cleaners, chemicals or even food products that may be within reach. There is a lengthy list of foods and chemicals that smell or even taste appealing to dogs. Many of these can be harmful if not lethal to your pup.
Common Household Items That are Hazardous to Puppies:
Pens and markers
Makeup
Household cleaners
Alcohol
When it comes to food, don’t assume a box or thick bag will deter a pup. Those sharp little puppy teeth can find their way into cardboard boxes, plastic bottles, and bags. Secure your food in thick plastic tubs, or better yet stashed away in a cupboard. Make sure your cleaners and chemicals are out of sight and out of reach.
Things They Fall Off Of
This is an important topic, especially for puppies in apartments. Many apartments come equipped with stairs, lofts and balconies that all pose a fall hazard for the pup. Young dogs don’t really have an understanding of heights or the repercussions of a fall. It is up to you to protect them.
It is a good idea to have a gate up to stop puppies from heading up or down the stairs. Those adorable uncoordinated little legs can easily trip, sending little pup into a nasty tumble.
The best way to avoid a puppy failing is to not create a situation where they can fail
Balconies are another hazard, even with built in guard rails. Many rails that line balconies and lofts are sufficient to stop a full-sized dog. However, a skinny little puppy might easily slip between the bars or through holes in them. We have already established that puppies have neither inhibition nor much sense. A distraction could send them through a guard rail and careening of the edge of a balcony.
The next time you have your puppy nearby, wrap your hands around their body, their shoulders and their hips. You
You’ll find that your furry little friend has a body that is far skinnier than it looks. Dogs can squeeze through some pretty tight spots when they want to.
Bulk mesh wiring, chicken wire or plastic barricades are a great way to reinforce balcony or patio guardrails. Most hardware or home goods stores sell these items cheap. They can be easily cut to custom sizes that fit your particular guard rail. Make sure you secure these areas at least two feet off the ground.
Puppy proofing is and will always be a work in progress. There are a lot of things to do before bringing home a puppy. Puppy proofing your home is one of the most important. These few steps, taken in advance of your puppy’s arrival to your apartment will lessen your stress and create a safe environment for your young dog to grow up and thrive.
Chewing is an inevitable part of owning a puppy. With patience and consistency, these 5 rules will improve your chew training.
Chewing is an inevitable part of dog ownership. Chewing provides dogs stimulation, allows them to learn about their environments and in the case of a puppy facilitates the teething process. Chew training a puppy is a process that requires patience and faith that your efforts will be rewarded.
When I began chew training my 10 week old Border Collie Brix, I remember feeling that her relentless chewing would never end. She had focused on pant legs, and despite my efforts to redirect her attention, she would immediately return to sink those needle-like puppy teeth into my jeans.
Now, as a 6 year old Brix never chews a single thing besides her frisbee and it has been that way for a long time. Chew training works if you are patient and consistent with your dog. Let’s start with some rules of chew training:
5 Rules Of Chew Training Your Puppy
Puppies will chew, accept it
Redirect your puppy’s chewing
Correct, never punish
There is no punishment after the fact
Chew mistakes are your mistakes, not your dog’s
The puppy will chew, deal with it
The main lesson of this article is this: Your puppy will chew and there is not a darn thing you can do about it. Your job as her handler is to direct that behavior to an appropriate place and time.
Humans take dexterity – our ability to do fine motor work with our hands – for granted. Most humans find it difficult to imagine not being able to explore our worlds without the use of our hands.
Dogs have virtually zero dexterity in their paws. Just watch any dog try to wrangle a tennis ball with their paw. You will find that they are little better than a club at the end of their leg.
For that reason, dogs utilize their mouths to get what they want. Not only that, but their sensitive noses are positioned right next to the mouth, making chewing a highly stimulating activity.
There is no way to stop a puppy from chewing outright, so don’t even try. The process of puppy chew training begins with accepting that fact. The rest comes down to patience and consistency on your part.
Redirect
As a new puppy owner, you will need to become a master of redirecting your puppy’s drive to chew. Throughout your apartment, you should have chew toys positioned at the ready. When your pup goes after your jacket sleeve, a rug or the end of your couch, it is your job to quickly and calmly redirect the dog to chew something appropriate.
To do this, just calmly use your hand to push the puppy’s mouth away from the couch or rug, and immediately plop a chew toy in her mouth. I mean immediately. The goal is to make it seem like the chew toy was there in the first place. You engaging in play with the chew toy will make it seem far more fun than the couch. We’ve found that rope toys are the most attractive to divert a puppy attention.
Advanced tip:
The goal in this exercise is to make the couch or whatever the puppy is not supposed to be chewing seem like the most boring thing. You do this by not tying any reaction – positive or negative – to the action of chewing. If everytime you respond, “Hey! No!” or jump up quickly when puppy chews the couch, then what you’ve taught the pup is that everytime she chews the couch, she gets her owner’s attention. Your action around the chew should be quiet and calm, almost boring.
Correct, never punish
Punishment in dog training is one of the counterproductive things that a trainer can do. Yelling, leash tugging or hitting will really only make you seem untrustworthy and unpredictable to your dog. Too much punishment and your dog will literally sour them, and you will find any future training very difficult to achieve. This usually causes inexperienced handlers to grow even more frustrated and often escalates punishment.
Correct, not punish
Correction, on the other hand, differs from punishment because it opens your dog up to a learning experience. There is nothing wrong with correcting a dog. In the example above, the calm and quiet use of your hands to redirect the puppy away from chewing the couch is the correction.
Plopping a chew toy in her mouth is the lesson. Do this enough times and not only will your dog come to trust you, but they will learn that they are only allowed to chew certain things because they learned that chewing the wrong items is just not worth their time.
A note on being human:
Our urge to communicate vocally with other humans is so ingrained in us that most dog owners find it almost impossible not to do the same with their dog. You should know that your dog is reading every single inflection in your voice, and the emotions that you express – even unconsciously – in your voice are perceived by your dog. If you choose to use your voice to correct your dog, be very careful! After having to correct your puppy dozens of times, you may lose your temper and yell a very angry or frightening “No!” when you really intended to be calm. It’s very hard to train humans to use their voices calmly and consistently.
Physical corrections are a great way to communicate to your dog in a calm way. By physical, I do not mean hitting, pinching, ear grabbing, flicking, leash tugging or anything else that may be perceived as unpleasant or painful to your dog. If you are unsure whether your physical corrections are too harsh, just try it out on yourself and see how you like it.
Physical corrections are emotionless gestures that communicate to a dog that what they are doing is not right. Redirecting a puppy’s mouth from chewing is a calm and clear way to communicate to her that she needs to stop. Training yourself to be able to use physical corrections appropriately will take a lot of time and observation of yourself.
There is not punishing a sin committed
Let’s say you left the living room for a moment, maybe to change clothes or use the bathroom and you return to find your pup has chewed a small hold in your favorite couch pillow. What are you feeling? Angry? Yeah, that’s understandable. Disappointed? Sure, maybe you’re disappointed in your pup, or more appropriately in yourself for having left your puppy in a situation where she was able to chew the couch.
Whatever you are feeling when you return to the scene of the crime, you need to remember that that error, in the mind of the dog, is long gone. That means that any correction, or worse any punishment, that comes after the fact will appear to come out of nowhere to your dog.
The Dog’s Mind
Dogs, and especially puppies, live moment to moment. They do not have the ability to tie past actions to current repercussions. If your puppy chewed a couch pillow 10 minutes before, they will have no way of understanding that you are punishing them for that. Instead, what the puppy perceives of you is that you are fairly unpredictable and are prone to snap for no reason at all. Give it enough time and your dog will learn not to trust you.
If you observe the way that dogs interact with one another, they are quite adept at quickly correcting inappropriate behaviors of other dogs. If one dog eats another’s meal, they don’t go back 10 minutes later and bite them to communicate “Hey! You ate my food!” It just doesn’t happen. But if a dog attempts to eat another dog’s food right in front of them, then they will quickly send a signal that that will not fly.
The best thing you can do if you’ve found that your puppy chewed something in the house, is literally nothing at all. You have to train yourself to think “Ok, I messed up on that one. I need to be more vigilant next time.” This leads to the last rule of chew training: Chew mistakes are your mistakes, not your dogs
Chew mistakes are your mistakes, not your dog’s
We have already established that chewing is an inevitable part of a puppy’s development. We can also fairly say that a young puppy has the mental maturity and reasoning skills of…well of a puppy. You cannot expect a young puppy to immediately learn your bizarre rules after one or two times of telling. Your dog, in their own puppy way will be wondering “Ok, so I can’t chew the square pillow on the couch, but I can chew the squirrel shaped pillow you bought from the pet store?” It just doesn’t make sense, so it will take a lot of time to shape that behavior.
Until then, you cannot blame chew mistakes on the puppy. It is unfair to them, and it is frankly incorrect. If your 10 week old puppy chews your couch pillow while you were in the bathroom, you’d best just go back in the bathroom, look in the mirror and say “Bad owner!”
Patience, consistency and having a good replacement chew toy at the ready are the best way to train your apartment pup not to chew. It will be frustrating at times, but it won’t last forever, we promise. Remember the rules.
5 Rules Of Chew Training Your Puppy
Puppies will chew, just accept it
Redirect your puppy’s attention
Correct, never punish
There is no punishment after the fact
Chew mistakes are your mistakes, not your dog’s
If you need more help, this book is a fantastic resource for raising puppies:
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