Crate training dogs is one of the single best things you can do for an apartment dog. But how big should a dog crate be?
There is a natural inclination to want to leave dogs free to roam around your apartment at night, or while you are gone. But this can lead to anxiety and unwanted behaviors like chewing or barking.
A dog that is properly crate trained will see their crate as a safe space. In there the dog is removed from the anxieties of the world around them, and often happily sleep away their time.
So how big should a dog crate be?
This is a great question, and varies between your dog’s breed and age.
Crate Size for Puppies
Puppies who are being crate trained need much less space that you might think. Most metal dog crates come with a partition to create a small space for your puppy to use. The main reason for this is that puppies tend not to go potty where they sleep.
While it might be tempting to create a large crate space, a puppy left in a large crate may find one corner for sleeping and one corner for potty. This will defeat the purpose of having a crate in the first place.
Most puppies, aside from the very small and very large can be comfortable in a crate space roughly 12″x18″.
Important note: Puppies should only be left in crates for relatively short periods of time, and should be properly crate trained before doing so.
Crate Size for Grown Dogs
The size of a crate varies between small dogs and big dogs. As a general rule of thumb, crates should be just big enough for a dog to sleep stretched out and stand to reposition themselves.
Crates of this size help reinforce that the crate is a space for calm and sleep. For this reason, good crate training also excludes toys or food.
How Big Should A Dog Crate Be?
Small Dogs: 22″x13″x16″
Medium Dogs: 30″x19″x21″
Large Dogs: 48″x30″x33″
These are rough suggestions, and may vary based on your dog’s specific size. Here are some good options for wire crates.
Breeding has transformed the wolf into hundreds of distinct breeds. We help you understand the characteristics of breeds to best select an apartment dog.
A dog is a dog is definitely not a dog. Breeding has transformed the wolf into hundreds of different breeds of all shapes, sizes and abilities. Dogs were traditionally bred for their physical abilities and temperament, but that varies widely between dogs. In this article we will discuss the characteristics of dog breeds that make the best apartment dogs.
Remember, a dog’s behavior and ability go hand in hand with their individual training and socialization. Just because a Shih Tzu is small doesn’t mean it will necessarily make the best apartment dog. Remember that any dog requires a significant amount of training and socialization to be a well-tempered and happy dog.
Drive
All dogs are energetic. Aside from a few of the notoriously lazy breeds, most dogs enjoy long days of running and play. Energy in a dog is different from drive.
High drive dogs are unrelenting in their pursuit. This may be game retreival, livestock herding or pest management. These traits are selected for because their motivation makes them highly valuable as workers.
Examples of high-drive dogs:
Border Collie
Australian Cattle Dog
Jack Russell Terrier
Germain Shorthaired Pointer
These breeds have an impressive level of focus and attention. However, this level of drive does not translate well to the small apartment settings. High drive breeds will need a significant amount of training, stimulation and exercise to be content apartment dogs.
High drive breeds who are not properly trained or not given an adequate outlet for their motivation will often fulfill that need on their own. Herding dogs may turn their attention to fast moving children or pets. Terriers may find chewing on a loose corner of carpet a suitable replacement for a catching rodents. It is safe to say that a high drive dog without proper training can wreak havoc on an apartment.
However, this does not mean that high-drive dogs cannot become happy apartment dogs. For these breeds to feel fulfilled, they need a higher than average level of exercise and mental stimulation. This level of training will not suit all dog owners. Exercise caution before you choose a high drive breed, no matter how adorable they might be.
Size
It is not surprising that a Yorkshire Terrier will make a better apartment dog than a Newfoundland. There is simply more room for a smaller dog to move around a small apartment than a large dog. But, this isn’t a hard and fast rule. In fact some small breeds like Jack Russell Terriers can be very difficult as apartment dogs. Some large breeds like Greyhounds seem to do well with a simple small space to doze away their afternoons. So choosing the best apartment dog based on size is merely a starting point. To select the right breed you need to dive deeper into their particular tendencies and temperament.
Large Breeds That Make Good Apartment Dogs:
Great Dane
Greyhound
Coat
Dogs shed a lot. Dogs will shed all over a designer couch or carpet, especially during the shedding season. If shedding is a concern, you may want to reconsider getting a dog in the first place.
Dog coats come are usually a part of what they are bred to do. Water breeds like Newfoundlands and Golden Retrievers have oily double coats with long outer guard hairs covering a downy undercoat. These thick double layer coats are meant to insulate a dog that spends long hours in water. Similarly, dogs bred to withstand arctic cold like Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes have an equally thick coat.
Consider your future dog’s coat wisely if you plan to move them into your apartment. Dogs that shed a lot will certainly add to the daily chores. But, consider the climate in the house. Is your house cool during the day? Does it get cold in the winter? Does it get a lot of sunlight and warm up on summer days? What may feel comfortable to you may be way too hot or cold for the pup. A Siberian Husky will not do well in an apartment in Tucson, AZ.
Trainability
Your dog will need some level of trainability to succeed as an apartment dog. They will need to come with you and go potty in a reasonable amount of time, or respond to your command to lay down or quit playing. Some dogs are simply more trainable than other dogs. What we consider “trainability” has less to do with their intelligence than their willingness to work with you. Some breeds are notoriously independent and unwilling to follow your rules.
Difficulty in training isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Some dogs are actually bred to be independently minded and their stubbornness is seen as an asset in specific situations. Scent hounds, for example, are valued for their ability to put the “blinders” on and follow their nose to kingdom come. However, they are notoriously difficult to train in terms of obedience or tricks. Do your research, or visit with owners of breeds you are interested in to get a feel for their willingness to work with you in your smaller apartment.
What we consider “trainability” has less to do with their intelligence than their willingness to work with you.
Breed selection for the apartment dweller is so complex that we could easily write a book about it. If you have specific questions about dog breeds take a look at our Deep Dive posts. Make sure you consider dog breed characteristics carefully when choosing your apartment dog.
Your behavior clashes with your dog in more ways than you think. Learn how and you’ll be much better friends.
Oh, how we love those snuggles, tail wags and face licks. Coming home to your dog’s enthusiastic greeting would lead to you to beleive that your dog felt nothing other than pure love for you.
What if you found out that your dog spent a good amount of their time tolerating annoying and sometimes offensive behavior from you? You might look at your relationship differently. In fact, this is the case for most dogs who live with humans. It turns out dogs may be our most tolerant friends.
It is probably not a stretch to imagine that dogs relate to other dogs in ways quite different from humans. When we greet other humans, we shake hands or hug. Dogs sniff each other’s rear ends.
In fact, from a behavioral perspective dogs interact with each other in ways that are almost completely opposite to the ways humans relate to one another. Sounds obvious right? So why then do we demand that dogs relate to us in human ways?
If you look at most human-dog relationships, you will find that for the most part humans act like humans, and they often expect dogs to act like them as well. So lets look at the ways that your behavior may be off-putting or offensive to your dog.
These Arms
The next time you are around a dog, watch the ways that they use their fore limbs. For the most part dogs use them to run, dig and occasionally swat at a toy. Anatomically dog paws aren’t all that different from humans. Functionally they are worlds apart from human arms. So it is no surprise that people have adapted behaviors that involve the use of their hands and arms. We are capable of handshakes, hugs, slaps and gentle caresses of a cheek. We can pitch, twist and manipulate objects in ways that dogs never could.
And so it is that the use — or more accurately the overuse— of our hands is one of the ways that we can really offend our dogs.
Let’s set aside the fine dexterity of the human hand, and look at a more simplistic behavior: the simple arm around a shoulder. We do this to people we like and love alike. This gesture can signal friendship, protection, sympathy, adoration and love. In the dog world, and arm over the shoulder of another dog is a sign of dominance, and is generally an unwelcome gesture.
If you watch dogs at your local dog park interacting with other dogs, you’re likely to see one or more dogs attempting to throw a forelimb over the shoulders of another dog. If you see this, watch how dogs respond. It is rarely a good interaction. This gesture is one way that dogs establish dominance and submission.
Yet, day by day we sit next to our dogs and throw a casual arm around their shoulder. We think we are being affectionate, but dogs seen this as a power grab, and while they may not show outright aggression, they are certainly irritated by the gesture.
In the working dog world, where dogs are trained rigorously to perform tasks, many trainers feel that the use of their hands with their dogs is a detriment to their training. Many experienced handlers of dogs use their arms minimally with their dogs.
Pro tip: When petting dogs that you don’t know, approach from below and aim to pet under their chin rather than going for the top of their head. This makes your gesture much less threatening.
With that said, there is no reason to stop petting your dogs. Most dogs adore ear scratches, belly rubs and pats on the butt. It is the overuse of your hands that may annoy or offend your dog. Consider the liklihood that you pet your dogs more for your own enjoyment than theirs, and keep the use of your hands to a minimum.
The Mouth That Moves
If dogs could talk, the things they’d say. In fact dogs do not talk, and from a communication perspective canine’s use of vocalization is relatively simplistic. Barks, growls, whimpers and howls all are used to communicate amongst other dogs, but in comparison to other animals this vocal communication is not very complex. And yet, many dogs are forced to live with arguably the most vocally complex animal than has ever lived.
Humans are so adept at vocal communication that some spend their lifetimes studying it. Because of this, we have become entirely reliant on vocalizations to communicate our every feeling. Between humans, this level of reliance on verbal communication is required. Our brains actually develop specific areas devoted entirely to the interpretation and production of verbal communication.
To dogs, the human reliance on verbal communication is an ever-present challenge. Although dogs cannot speak our language, that doesn’t mean they don’t try! Much of their very existence depends on the things we human say to them. “You hungry girl? Want some food? Who’s a good boy, you want to go for a walk? Bad dog! No barking! Get down. Get out. Lay down. Come here boy! Off the couch.” It’s a wonder we don’t drive our dogs mad with the many things we say. While most dogs don’t completely break down, many do silently shut off to the endless jibberjabbering of humans.
Back to the topic of training dogs, one of the first things that trainers do with new dogs owners is to train them to not use their mouths so much. It makes sense too. When we humans want something, for example, we ask for it verbally. If we don’t get the reaction we want, we assume we weren’t heard and go on repeating ourselves until we get what we want.
Dogs have a much more economical approach to the things that humans say. It is true that dogs cannot understand our language, but they certainly can learn our words. When we say things like “Ball” or “Walk” dogs have learned that those words have very high value to them. Often this is because the word is tied to a behavior (ie. the word “walk” is actually tied to the behavior of going for a walk). Dogs are very good at cataloging high value words that actually result in a worthwhile results.
On the flip side, dogs catalog low value words. Possibly the most challenging word/action/behavior in the dog training world is the recall — getting your dog to come to you when called. Many dog owners struggle and often fail at training their dog to “come” when called. More often than not this is because dogs have deemed the word “come” as low value, and this is often because the word “come!” is overused. The more humans repeat a command, the less valuable it becomes.
And so it goes, dogs find themselves constantly trying to make sense of a language they will never fully understand. All the while, we humans go on blabbing our mouths. Do your dog a favor, say less.
Face to Face
Another hallmark behavior of humankind is face-to-face interaction. Kissing, nuzzling, hugging and snuggling often involve mouth-to-mouth, cheek-to-cheek or face-to-face interaction. For humans, in the right situations, this is a welcoming and often exciting behavior.
For dogs, being face-to-face is outright rude behavior. Occasionally, dogs will go snout to snout during an early greeting, but that is rarely long lived. Often when dogs are positioned face-to-face for any length of time, a fight is not far off.
Humans are notorious for — and somehow unable to resist — pulling dog’s faces close to their’s in greeting. During a road trip through Wyoming, my wife and I were out near Devil’s Tower letting our border collie stretch his legs. A nearby couple came over to chit chat with us, and the woman seemed immediately attracted to our dog. Without warning she walked straight up to him, grabbed him by the cheeks and pressed her face up against his. Within seconds our dog nipped her. Actually, it was more a nose bump with a little sniffing noise — a remarkably gracious way for him to say “Get the hell away from me lady!” The lady laughed it off as no big deal. He hadn’t actually bitten her after all. My wife and I both looked at each other and chuckled as we knew we were sharing the same thought: “She had that coming!”
The fact is, dogs do not interpret the behavior of a human pressing their face to their’s as anything other than weird, scary and potentially threatening. As we touched on in a previous section, dogs do not use their hands to block or push away other dogs or humans from getting to close, so they use their mouths. Most dog bites, as scary and dangerous as they can be, usually aren’t aggressive behavior, they are just the only way a dog has to establish boundaries.
There is nuance to face-to-face behavior, of course. Dogs will often go face-to-face with other dogs during play or casual interaction. It is in the subtlety of the behavior that makes it ok between dogs. This subtlety is something humans will never be able to grasp, so it is not worth trying. Another difference is face licking amongst dogs. This is one instance when face-to-face interaction is tolerated between dogs. Face licking is often a sign of submission and is so tolerated by dominant dogs.
It is somehow very difficult for humans to resist face-to-face interaction with dogs. It seems to go against our very humanity to not kiss or nuzzle our dogs. From their perspective, they would be just fine foregoing the kiss in favor of something more appropriate like a game of tug.
As mentioned above, the intent of this article is not to tell you to stop kissing your dogs or talking to your dogs. Rather, the purpose of this article is to help you see the behaviors that may be offensive to your dog, and try to lessen them. Dogs are incredibly tolerant, so they are willing to put up with the occasional kiss on the forehead, or your endless yammering. It is your job to try to act in ways that are pleasant and agreeable to your pup. If you must hug your dog — and sometimes you just must — do it infrequently, and keep it short.
Dogs are incredible animals. They have actually evolved a sense for coexisting with humans that dates back tens of thousands of years. But that does not mean that all dog-human interactions have been peaches and roses.
More than likely, dogs have evolved the ability to tolerate human behavior. After all, docility is one of the primary traits that distinguishes a domestic dog from a wild canine. There is no denying the bond that humans and dogs have. Many a good dog devotes their lives to doing right by their human. The least we can do is to return the favor.
If you are interested in a deeper dive into dog behavior, we strongly recommend Patricia McConnell’s page!
Who doesn’t love a big dog? Whether the fluffy protective nature of a Newfoundland or the calm presence of a Great Dane, big dogs have always been appealing. There are dozens of reasons to bring home a large pup. But if you are considering getting one, there are a few we want you to consider before getting a big dog.
Big dogs have played an important role in protection, work and hunting for centuries. Dozens of large dogs were bred for a host of different tasks. In modern times, big dogs are often valued for their ability to add security to a home, or for the gentle companionship that comes with many of the breeds.
Big Dog, Short Life
The sad reality of the dog world is that dogs simply do not live long enough. It seems just as soon as you get out of the puppy phase and into a rhythm with your dog, you are left with just a couple handfuls of quality years. For big dogs, there may be even less of those years.
Unfortunately, big dog breeds tend to have shorter life spans than their smaller counter points. This isn’t true across the board, and obviously varies widely based on the quality of life and health of a dog. However, the gentle giants of the dog world are never around as long as they should be.
Breeds that tend to live less than 10 years:
Great Dane
St. Bernard
Irish Wolfhound
Newfoundland
Health Issues
Big dogs tend to come with big health problems. Of the many ailments that can affect dogs, hip dysplasia is one of the big ones. Hip dysplasia involves the degeneration of the joint that connects the dog’s hind legs to their pelvis. This condition can leave a dog utterly debilitated and in significant pain.
Unfortunately due to unique factors involved in large dog breeds, hip dysplasia tends to be more common in them. The cause of this is multifactorial including health and genetics, but may be due to the rapid growth of large and lanky dogs.
Everything is More Expensive
Big dogs always equal big expense. It may be obvious to most that a big dog will eat more food, drink more water, sleep in a bigger bed and require a bigger crate. But, there are smaller expenses that all grow proportional to the size of a dog.
Food is the most obvious expense that a big dog will rack up. According to PetMD, a 6lb toy breed should eat 1/2 cup of food per day. A 100lb dog will require 41/2 cups of food per day.
If you do the math for standard size kibble, a 40lb bag bag of dog food will last:
6lb dog: 281 days
100lb dog: 31 days
Based on that, assuming a 40lb bag of dog food costs $35.00, you annual food expense comes to:
6lb dog: $45/year
100lb dog: $412/year
Beyond food, nearly every item you need for a dog will more expensive for a large breed vs. a small breed. Crates, collars, boots, harnesses and beds will all likely be a lot pricier.
Bye Bye Apartment
Apartment landlords are notorious for implementing blanket dog restrictions based on weight. Owning a dog breed heavier than 40lbs may preclude you from getting that apartment that you want. For those apartments that do allow dogs, often they charge pet rent and deposits based on the size of a dog with larger breeds drawing heavier fees.
If you anticipate moving a lot in the next decade, you might reconsider having a large dog. If you can’t resist those gentle giants (which we understand!) just plan ahead when researching new apartments to know what restrictions there are.
Big Dogs Need Big Space
The whole goal here at Apartment Dog is to prove to you that owning a health and happy dog in an apartment is possible. Given that, we would never deny that more space is better for a dog. This is especially so for large breeds.
Small apartments may pose obvious challenges to a large breed. Beyond the need for space to stretch their legs, a big dog may find themselves “getting into trouble” more easily in a small space. Maybe their tail knocks down a glass here, or in their excitement they crash into an end table and knock everything to the floor. Big dogs, no matter how happy they might be, might create a constant challenge around the house.
Big dogs also come with a powerful set of large jaws! You had better plan to have a chew training regiment in place early to stave off the potential damage to furniture, possessions and the apartment itself.
Remember also that with big dogs, comes big messes. Rainy days usually equate to muddy dogs, and a big dog will spread mud and dirt around a house much faster than a little one.
Likewise, accidents are much more difficult to clean up when they come from a 150lb Great Pyrenees than from a Chihuahua. A big dog means a big bladder. Planning out a regular potty training
If you are considering a big dog in a small apartment, you should plan ahead and know the challenges that you will face living in a confined space.
In Conclusion, We Love Big Dogs
We would never discourage getting a large dog. These breeds can be some of the most endearing and loyal companions. But before you bring one home, just know the challenges and realities that face a large breed. Plan for them, make accommodations and you will set yourself and your dog up for success.
For more information about raising happy and healthy dogs in apartments, consider joining our mailing list!
With holiday meals fast approaching, November is the perfect month to brush up on the foods in your kitchen that may pose a risk to your dog’s health. Many of the foods that can make your dog ill are far more common than you might think. Some of these are potentially fatal to a dog, so knowing which ones are the riskiest will help you keep your kitchen safe.
In this article, we will discuss five of the most harmful foods and a brief explanation of what symptoms they cause in a dog. Some of these foods might seem like something your dog would have no interest in. However, foods like onions and grapes/raisins are often hidden in prepared foods that otherwise taste great to your pup.
Also, if your dog is prone to raiding the trash can, you might assess how you’ve prepared your apartment. When dogs get into trash, they assume an eat first and ask questions later mentality. Many dogs are not discerning when it comes to trash can raids and may inadvertently ingest something harmful.
Grapes
Grapes have been on the no-go list for dogs for the past few decades. This is due mainly to reports of kidney failure after ingesting them. These reports detail fairly severe illness immediately after ingesting even a few grapes. Symptoms included vomiting, listlessness and signs of kidney failure including excessive urination with high protein content.
However, some research has found conflicting evidence. One report found that extracts of grape and blueberries were well tolerated by dogs. The report found that grape extract did not induce any measurable loss of kidney function. This indicates that if grapes are indeed harmful to dogs that it may be something other than the soluble chemicals found in the fruit.
We recommend keeping them away from your dogs to be on the safe side.
Xylitol
Xylitol is a sugar substitute found in some candies, chewing gum and dental products. Its taste is sweet like sugar, but is less calorically dense. It also has the ability to slow bacterial growth since most bacteria are incapable of digesting xylitol. This is why xylitol is used in many dental products.
Unfortunately for us dog owners, xylitol comes packaged in tasty sweet products like chewing gum. If left out, these could pose an irresistible temptation for a dog.
So what happens when a dog eats products containing xylitol? Essentially, the sugar induces a release of insulin many times greater than other sugars like glucose or sucrose. High circulating insulin drawssugars into the tissues, triggering a sudden drop in serum blood sugar also known as hypoglycemia. Hypoglycemia can present as shakiness, unusual behavior and weakness. At higher doses, xylitol can induce outright liver failure. Either of these symptoms can be quite dangerous for your pup. If you even suspect that he/she got into something containing xylitol, it’s time to head to the veterinarian.
Onions
Onions are a kitchen staple, and find their way into dozens of different dishes. What is Thanksgiving stuffing without the flavor of onions? With these pungent veggies in use in the kitchen, there is a significant risk that your dog might get into them.
Onions induce a condition called hemolytic anemia in dogs, where in your dog’s body starts to destroy its own red blood cells. Some research has shown that gut bacteria contribute to the development of hemolytic anemia from onions. They do this by metabolizing compounds in onions into more toxic forms in the gut.
Hemolytic anemia is a serious condition in dogs. Signs of this condition include pale oral mucosa and weakness or tiring out easily. If the conditions progresses, the breakdown of red blood cells causes bilirubin to build up in the body. This leads to jaundice (yellowing of the skin and whites of the eyes) and dark Coca Cola-colored urine. These are signs of a serious condition. If you dog shows these signs consult your vet immediately.
Be mindful of foods that contain high amounts of onions as well as the scraps that make it into the garbage or fall on the kitchen floor.
Alcohol
Alcohol is easy to understand as a toxin because it affects dogs the same way that it affects humans. The main risk is that many humans overestimate the amount that dogs can ingest before getting sick.
Reasoning this out comes down to volumes and percentages. For the average human, it might take two drinks in an hour to reach the legal limit to drive in most states. This is roughly .08% alcohol by volume (ABV). So, let’s say one beer gets a 180lb person to about 0.4% ABV. A dog that weighs 40lbs is roughly ¼ the weight of a 180lb human. This means that the same beer might bring the dog to an ABV roughly four times as much, roughly 1.6%.
If you have ever seen a human with an ABV of 1.6% you have seen the toxic effects of alcohol first hand. Slurred speech and poor coordination highlight the toxic effects have on the brain. In particular, alcohol effects the cerebellum, the region of the brain that coordinates movement. Acute intoxication in your dog may present as your dog being unable to walk or coordinate movements.
Acute intoxication by alcohol also damages the liver and can induce a toxic form of hepatitis.
Other signs of acute alcohol toxicity in dogs include listlessness, inability to wake or get up and drooling.
Beer, sweet cocktails and wine are tempting to some dogs. If left unattended a dog can drink far more alcohol than their system can tolerate. It is important to keep alcoholic beverages well out of reach of dogs.
Chocolate
Chocolate is a well-known toxins to dogs. With the holidays nearing, chocolates may start to show up around the house posing a risk for your pup.
Theobromine is one of the active compounds in cacao beans. Some chocolates, particular dark chocolates contain high levels of theobromine. Theobromine effects dogs quite differently than humans. It affects a dog’s digestive system, inducing nausea and GI upset. Theobromine is also stimulating to a dog’s heart causing a rapid heart rate. Theobromine also impacts a dog’s central nervous system. It can cause seizure-like conditions if eaten in sufficient quantities.
With holiday meals fast approaching, this is the time of year to be aware of those foods that can be harmful to your dog. Social distancing may force your celebrations to be quite small this year. While you may revel in sharing holidays with just your pup, it may be more difficult to keep an eye on him/her.
If you suspect your dog got into anything harmful, or if he/she is acting unusual or displaying symptoms, consult your veterinarian right away.
Disclaimer: This post is not intended as a substitute for direct, personalized medical advice from a trained and licensed veterinarian. This post is merely for your own entertainment and education. If you suspect your dog has ingested a harmful substance, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.
Rainy days make walking and exercising your dog a messy chore. Incorporate these activities into a play session that keeps your apartment clean and your dog happy.
Rainy days can really put a damper on the fun of walking your dog. For you city dwellers and apartment residents, regular daily walks are usually your dog’s main form of exercise. What is usually a fun frolic through the park on a sunny day may turn into a tromp through the mud, and a dirty dog to bring back to the apartment. If you aren’t up for that, or if the weather is just too bad to go outside, you need not despair. Here are a few suggestions for safe, apartment-friendly indoor workouts to stimulate and tire out your dog.
Reminder: Dogs love to play, but don’t get sucked into the idea that they need to play every day. Even Olympic athletes take days off to sit on the couch. If the day is dreary and cold and you are simply too busy or tired to follow these tips, it is ok. Your dog can handle a day off!
Hide and Sniff
Dogs come with incredible smelling machines attached right on the front of their face. Using their noses to sniff out treats and toys ties back to their evolutionary makeup. For that reason, scent activities are highly stimulating for dogs. Rooting out a tasty treat or favorite toy can be an all-consuming task.
A little training around toys and patience is all you need to get these games going in the house. To begin, simply take your dog’s favorite toy and hide it under a couch cushion, behind a bookshelf or under a carpet. You can do this right in front of them because dog’s don’t have quite the sense for object permanence that people have. In fact, you can actually hide a toy right in front of most dogs. Once the toy is hidden, give your dog the “Go find it!” command and let her sniff around. If she finds it, reward her a little party with a light game of tug or short toss.
Eventually, she may figure out your game, so you’ll need to vary your hiding locations a bit. For a little extra challenge, have your pup wait patiently in another room while you hide a toy and then release her to find it. This of course requires a well-trained “stay” command.
Most dogs are scent wizards. However, some dogs are actually bred for scent work. Dog’s like hounds and beagles will astound you at their ability to find items based on even the faintest scent. Other dogs may get bored rather quickly. If your dog is one of the scent gifted, you might consider getting them involved in scent-based sports like barn hunt. If your dog is more like the latter – like our border collies – then you’ll need to just do short scent sessions mixed in with some of the other activities listed in this article.
Chew Puzzles
Chew puzzles are probably the most passive option for rainy day activities. But, that doesn’t mean they aren’t a blast for your dog. Chew puzzles can range from basic chew bones like Kong or Nylar on up to fairly elaborate toys that hide treats behind a maze of moving parts.
Chewing is southing and satisfying for a dog. But like all activities, some dogs take to it more than others. That’s perfectly fine! A ten minute chew session can be really rewarding, and quite tiring for a dog, especially toward the end of the day.
One of the easiest chew puzzles involves putting a small amount of peanut butter or Kong Stuff’n Easy Paste into a Kong Classic Chew Toy and letting your pup spend the next hour trying to lick all of it out. This is about the easiest stimulation you can give your dog. Just make sure you don’t overdo how much peanut butter you put in there. You don’t want to turn a rainy day activity into an upset stomach.
Tip: these chew sessions should be just one component of your rainy day activity. This is often a great way to cap off an indoor workout and let your dog chew her way into a nice long nap.
Tricks
There really is no better option for indoor workout than tricks. Trick training works your pup’s mind and body, builds your bond and helps train them into well-behaved dogs. Trick training can start as early as 8-10 weeks and go throughout the dog’s life. Whether you are teaching your pup to sit for the first time, or working on an elaborate obedience sequence, there’s no denying the benefit of trick training.
The number of tricks you can teach a dog are virtually endless. If you have a new pup, try working on the mainstays like “sit” or “lay down.” Older dogs can work on more physical tricks like heeling or walking through your legs. If your pup loves tricks, you have no reason to stop until you’ve choreographed your audition routine for America’s Got Talent.
Reminder: The younger the dog, the shorter the trick training session. 8-12 week old dogs only need about 5 minutes at the time. Dogs can sour to work if you overdo it, so make the sessions quick and concise and move on to the next exciting activity.
Tug
Tug is one of the best games you can play with your pup. However, this game goes so far beyond simple play. Tug is a way to build obedience, use up physical energy, help avoid possession guarding and strengthen your bond with your dog. But, there is a right way and a wrong way to play tug.
The old-fashioned “tug-of-war” is outdated and inadequately describes the essence of this activity. The goal of tug isn’t to win possession of the toy as the word “war” implies. The purpose of the game is to engage in play together. However, your pup might see the game differently at first. Dogs, especially puppies love a game of keep away, and winning possession of a toy through tug is just the first step in that game. Don’t fear, this is easy to correct.
When you play tug with our dogs, the game should look more like a game of catch than a game of keep-away. Try swishing the toy along the ground to entice the pup to go after it. Once they have a good hold of it (more on this later!) the game has begun! The pup pulls and gains ground, then we pull back. Tug tug tug, give give give. Mix a little light shaking and suddenly the game becomes wildly exciting for a dog.
Drop-Take-Drop
A game of tug is a great way to build obedience. Try using the command “drop” periodically throughout the game. If your pup is reluctant to give up the toy, don’t repeat the command, just sit perfectly still until she drops it. As soon as she does, exclaim “Yes!” and immediately offer back the toy with the command “Take!” and resume the game. What did you just teach her? Two things. One, when she gives you the toy, it doesn’t mean she loses it forever. Second, giving up the toy actually means the game resumes!
Approaching tug in this way teaches a dog to listen to you and to associate you with fun. More importantly, your dog learns that they can give up their toys and not lose them forever. In fact, if they give up the toy, the game gets even more fun!
Now, there are a few things to avoid when playing tug. First, a dog’s teeth look strong, but there are limits. Avoid tugging hard, or using sharp jerking tugs as you could possibly break a tooth. Puppy teeth are especially vulnerable to this.
Tip: Make sure your dog has a solid hold on the toy before tugging. If she only has a little bit of it in her front teeth, there is a lot of force being put on those teeth. Give her time to get a good hold on the toy before tugging to avoid damaging her teeth.
Second, avoid pulling upward such that your dog’s neck cranes backward. This puts unnecessary stress on their neck. Get down on your knees to avoid pulling upward. Pull the toy horizontally or toward the ground. Notice that your dog’s head is in line with the rest of its body? That’s a good thing.
Lastly, when the game is done, always end on a positive note. We prefer not to leave the pup with the toy after the game, but rather to take the toy and end with a “Ok, all done!” At that point, the toy goes away and the pup gets lots of pets and praise. Soon dogs learn that the game is over and it’s time to grab a drink of water and rest.
Reminder: the saying “play makes potty” is real. Once you are done with your play session, take your pup out for a potty break because they probably have to go.
All of these exercises can be done in the confines of your living room. They offer a great option for exercising your pup on a rainy day. Even better, they are an opportunity to build your training and strengthen the bond between you two.
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